Island Peak Climbing - 17 days

Imja Tse, also known as Island Peak, is a mountain in the Himalayas in eastern Nepal's Sagarmatha National Park. Members of the British Mount Everest expedition named the mountain “Island Peak” in 1953 because it looked like an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. The summit was renamed Imja Tse in 1983, but Island Peak is still the most popular name. The peak is a continuation of the ridge that descends from Lhotse Shar's south end. Imja Tse's southwest summit was first ascended in 1953 by a British team that went on to summit Mount Everest as part of a training exercise.

To climb Island Peak, one option is to start at Pareshaya Gyab, a base camp at 5,087 meters (16,690 feet), and begin the ascent between 2 and 3 a.m. Another popular option is to climb to High Camp at roughly 5,600 meters (18,400 feet) to shorten the effort and climbing duration on summit day. The trek from base camp to high camp is relatively easy, but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling and ascending via a wide-open gully. Glacier terrain begins at the top of the gully and continues up a steep snow and ice slope. The guides can set up fixed ropes from here for the difficult ascent of about 100 meters (330 feet) to the summit ridge. The ascent to the summit is tough due to the steep terrain. While Mount Everest lies only ten kilometers to the north, the enormous wall of Lhotse, which towers 2,300 meters (7,500 feet) above the peak, will hide the view.

Trip overview

To begin, you should understand that Island Peak is not a trekking peak. To do this climb, you must have good mountaineering skills. Your itinerary must leave enough time for appropriate acclimation. In addition, to tackle this mountain, you should be in superb physical condition. Keep in mind that alpine climbing is not a walk in the park, and preparation needs to be taken seriously. Of course, your guides will be there to support you, but one of mountaineering's guiding principles is that each climber is responsible for his or her own safety. When you're in the mountains, you have to adjust. During your climb, there are no showers or comfortable amenities. You'll be sleeping in tents, possibly next to other persons, some of whom you might not even know. Hence, maintaining a positive mindset is important and even critical to your success. Besides strength and endurance training, hillwalking, trekking and climbing are important exercises to prepare for your adventure. Using a staircase with a weighted backpack to supplement longer hikes is a good training method as well. The most crucial training is to simulate the conditions you'll encounter while climbing Island Peak.

Location

Island Peak is located on the Nepalese-Tibetan border in Nepal's Everest area. The ridgeline descends from Lhotse to the top of Island Peak. Amazing glaciers run down from 8,000 meters in this unique mountain valley. Island Peak and the Everest Region have only one entrance. That is via the Himalayan village of Lukla, which is reached after a 40-minute flight into the highlands. Domestic flights are usually included in the package price. You might be able to get a glimpse Mount Everest in the distance if the weather is clear during your journey. Island Peak, on the other hand, will not be visible from the plane and will not be visible until Dingbouche on day 6 or 7 of the trek. The spectacular trek across the Everest Region is a great way to acclimate before tackling Island Peak.

FAQs

How do I prepare?

First of all, you need well-worn hiking boots and appropriate climbing boots. If you're unsure, we can recommend some footwear. For the climb, you need good quality climbing equipment like crampons, an ice ax, a harness, slings, carabiners, a helmet etc. We recommend to get this gear in your home country to make sure you have the quality you want. Your gloves must be comfortable when climbing with ropes and adjusting all mountaineering equipment. It can be as cold as -20c/-4F depending on the month you climb. You'll need a thick hat and a buff to keep your mouth warm. For the summitting day, four layers of clothes are appropriate. For the rest of the time, you don’t need that many layers. Most mornings in your tent will be cold, but once the sun comes out, it will warm up. Your down jacket is a must-have. You'll use it for your summit day and wear it at night while relaxing. Depending on your background, preparation could take a year or only half a year - it really depends where you begin in terms of fitness, trekking, altitude, and climbing experience. The following are the most important aspects for success:

1). Your ability to adjust to low oxygen levels 2). Do you have a plan for proper acclimatization? 3). Do you have several days available for summit attempts? 4). Are you prepared with the appropriate technical training? 5). How do you deal with downtime while living in a tent? 6). Maintain your hygiene. 7). In a mountain setting, stay positive.

What about food and water?

At higher altitudes, you should drink 4–5 liters per day. Your body dehydrates faster due to altitude, and you're also exercising. As a result, you must continue to drink since your body is producing more red blood cells to transport oxygen more quickly throughout your body. Because your blood thickens at high elevations, water is essential for keeping you healthy and your body functioning properly. You can thin your blood with Ibuprofen, Disprin, or Asprin in your water to reduce inflammation, which will benefit you as you climb higher on the mountain. You need carbs, protein, and other essential foods to get you up and running with the necessary fuel.

**What permits do I need? **

The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) requires a permit for climbing Island Peak. The amount is determined by the season. In high season, it is around 250 USD. The permit fee collected by the Nepali government is used to conserve the environment and the region's rare and endangered fauna. Climbing permits for Island Peak are not transferrable or refundable. For a limited period, they are solely for the designated individual listed on the permit. Because the permits are crucial and might be checked throughout your climb, they should be kept in a safe place. Besides the climbing permit, you need an entry permit for the Sagarmatha National Park, which is around 30 USD for foreigners. On top of that, you need a local area permit, which is usually available at Lukla airport (around 20 USD). If you book a package for your Island Peak adventure, your permits and paperwork will all be taken care of.

How long does it take to climb Island Peak?

The whole journey starting from Kathmandu takes almost 3 weeks – trekking/climbing time is around 2 weeks. After the climb, you can spend a few extra days in Kathmandu, explore Pokhara, go white water rafting or do some sightseeing, for example. Nepal has many things to offer, so why not go on a discovery tour to learn more about its history, religion, people and culture.

What kind of weather can I expect?

Depending on the month you climb Island Peak, you can expect temperatures ranging from +20°C to -20°C (-4°F to 68°F). In April, May, late September, and October, daytime temperatures on the journey vary from 0 to 15 degrees Celsius, and nighttime temperatures on Island Peak are normally -5 to -10 degrees Celsius. It gets warmer as the sun rises. The temperature will feel colder if the weather is gloomy and windy. When ascending Island Peak, be prepared for any weather.

What is the biggest challenge when climbing Island Peak?

On the mountain, almost everyone has to face their fears. You will probably ask yourself questions like: “Have I really trained enough?” or “Do I have enough mountain experience?”. It is important to keep a positive mindset. If you have prepared well, you should be confident about your abilities and equipment. Some people find it difficult to sleep in a tent. It's crucial to set your routine once you get to camp. Clean up, change clothing, then set up your sleeping bag and relax. Don’t look too far ahead, but focus on one day at a time is – this is the best approach to stay on track.

How difficult is it to climb Island Peak?

Most climbers can summit Island Peak as long as they have the necessary technical skills and are in excellent physical condition. What matters most is that you have acclimatized properly. Most people can reach the peak if they put in the necessary preparation, spend enough time on the mountain and keep a positive mindset.

When is the best time to climb Island Peak?

In theory, Island Peak can be climbed at any time of year, except during the monsoon season (June to the end of August). People have successfully scaled the peak in winter, even though the temperatures are extremely cold. Although the peak may be scaled practically any time of year, the best times to tackle it are in the spring and autumn. Because the spring climbing season also happens to coincide with Everest climbing, you'll likely run into a lot of expedition teams headed for the summit in April and May. Autumn in Nepal has brighter skies and is by far the most popular season for climbing the mountain. This is also the ideal time to visit Nepal in general, and most tourists prefer to go mountain trekking during this time. This period after the monsoon can sometimes get crowded. On the other side, you can be pretty much sure that you will have the best weather and climbing conditions.